A week in Scotland and the Outer Hebrides? Yes Please!
Initially, we thought we'd need much more time for this trip, being based in the North East of England and aiming for the Isle of Harris and Lewis. However, we quickly realised that it's quite manageable in a short period, especially off-season when beach lounging isn't the priority.
As always, grab a cuppa and savour a few moments of peace while reading about our adventures. I hope you enjoy it and feel inspired to embark on your own journey to the Outer Hebrides one day if you haven't already.
DAY 1
Our plan was to push as far into Scotland as possible. It's worth noting that the only part booked for the entire trip was the ferry to and from the Outer Hebrides, no campsites were reserved, so we had flexibility. Our ambitious goal was Fort William for the first night, but leaving at 6 pm - 5.5 hours seemed overly optimistic!
We crossed the Scotland border and continued north towards Loch Lomond. Three and a half hours later, it was late, pitch black, and we were exhausted. It became clear that our original destination was out of reach for the evening, but you will soon discover why this turned out to be the best decision!
We were aware that stopping at Loch Lomond required a permit, which could be obtained online for a small fee, if purchased the day before. This permit allows overnight stays in designated camping car parks. Not having this, we relied on our trusty resources like Search for Sites and Park4night apps to find our first night's accommodation - The Drovers Inn at Loch Lomond!
DISCLAIMER - Now, if you're familiar with this place, you might have some thoughts... I only discovered the alleged hauntings the morning after our stay!
I probably should have been more prepared walking into what turned out to be the reputedly most haunted pub in Scotland, especially when heading to the toilet in the pitch-black darkness at 11 pm... but at £5 a night, and sleeping under the sounds of what turned out to be a picturesque waterfall, who could grumble :-)
DAY 2
Now, let me explain why we were actually glad we didn't reach Fort William in the dark the night before... and it was all because of this day. If you own, or are renting a campervan, you'll appreciate the freedom of not having every detail booked well in advance. It's so refreshing (especially for indecisive people like me)!
To start off, we took a scenic drive through the beautiful area of Crianlarich, where we encountered our first honesty box of the trip. If you've read our previous blog posts, particularly our NC500 adventure (https://www.adventuresintoffee.com/post/travelling-the-nc500-road-trip-with-children) or follow our Instagram @toffee_the_vw, you'll know that my daughter has a thing for honesty boxes, she was obsessed with them during our NC500 trip two years ago! This particular box quickly became one of our favourites. It's filled with delicious cakes, and the owner, fondly known as 'The Crazy Goose Lady,' is an absolute delight. If you happen to be passing by, definitely give it a try (just make sure you have some change)!
We proceeded through the stunning mountainous landscapes and made our way towards GLENCOE! This is a sight you definitely wouldn't want to miss by driving through in the dark. The breathtaking scenery will leave you in awe, prompting you to stop repeatedly as you journey through. I'll let the pictures do the talking...
We also stopped at the Glencoe Visitors Centre for a quick hot chocolate, but ended up staying for an hour. The centre was filled with fascinating facts, activities for the little ones, a cinema featuring the history of Glencoe, and captivating mountain stories.
After enjoying a delicious hot chocolate, we continued our journey to Fort William with some memorable stops along the way. We paused at Glengarry viewpoint to take in the breathtaking scenery, made a quick visit to Manuela's Wee Bakery (a favourite from our NC500 trip), and then headed straight for the Isle of Skye bridge.
Wow, the drive was almost like something out of a movie, the majestic mountains, tranquil lochs, and stunning surroundings left us in awe.
Crossing Skye bridge, we were eager to check out Glenbrittle Campsite, which had been highly recommended. We called ahead and were pleased to find plenty of space available being their first day open of the season. A 50 minute drive through Skye's picturesque landscapes brought us to our destination.
Glenbrittle Campsite - albeit our most expensive night of the trip (at £47 for the night), it was well worth it. Surrounded by lochs and mountains, every direction was picturesque, even the scenery from the toilet block was stunning!
We were lucky with the weather, which was just warm enough for our first alfresco meal of the year. With cooking utensils in hand, I prepared a meal overlooking the water while the children played football on the expansive green fields. Later that evening, we strolled along the path to the shell beach. As the sun set, the little ones happily collected shells and splashed in the water.
DAY 3
We departed Glenbrittle Campsite and drove a short 5 minutes to the Fairy Pools of Skye. As soon as we arrived, the rain started, but that didn't deter us - what's the saying? There's no such thing as bad weather... only bad clothing (although I beg to differ when the wind is blowing a gale and we are having to shut the pop top - but that comes later in the story!). We put on our waterproof gear and set off on the beautiful 6k round trip to the Fairy Pools and back, surrounded by stunning scenery. I could imagine how crowded it must get during the summer months, dipping into the fairy pools, however despite the rain in March, there was still one adventurous soul brave enough to take a dip!
The clear turquoise water of the Fairy Pools looked magnificent against the misty mountains in the background.
After returning to the van, we stayed in the car park with a view, popped the top up, and prepared lunch. Continuing our journey, we explored more of Skye's beauty as we headed towards Dunvegan. We decided to skip the £60 family entry fee for Dunvegan Castle and instead wandered through Dunvegan village. It was a charming place with a post office, small shop, bakery, and a fish and chip shop - naturally, we tried the local chippy! The weather had dramatically changed, and the bright sunshine was so welcoming as we strolled around. Gardens featuring boats and garages converted into small museums added to the charm of our discovery. We enjoyed our chips by the sea, found a quaint picnic bench, and relaxed while watching the world go by.
Knowing we had a ferry to catch the next day, we drove up to Uig and explored a few potential spots listed on Park4Night. Eventually, we opted for a farm stay in the scenic area of Kilvaxter, just 10 minutes from the Uig ferry port. It cost us £15, paid conveniently through their honesty box system at the farm.
Later, we took an evening stroll through the farm cottages, passed numerous honesty boxes, admired baby lambs, and soaked in the stunning views.
Returning to the van, we enjoyed a breathtaking sunset overlooking the Isle of Harris and settled in for a cosy family games night.
DAY 4
Ferry day had arrived! After bidding farewell to the adorable baby lambs, we embarked on our journey to the Outer Hebrides, a 1 hour and 30 minute Calmac ferry ride away.
Onboard, we relaxed in the lounge, explored the ship's shop, and enjoyed the scenic views from the outside deck as we approached the Isles.
ISLE OF HARRIS
We arrived at Tarbet port and began our journey with no specific destination in mind and no time constraints, revelling in the freedom to explore. Our journey took us through winding mountain roads, past farms, and eventually led us to the stunning Luskintyre Beach, boasting the longest stretch of sandy coastline.
As we drove, we passed several potential stops for the evening, but we couldn't resist the the space with direct access to the beach, offered for a £5 'text to donate' fee.
Luskintyre Beach surprised us with a mountain of shells and crystal clear waters, not to mention the smooth white sand. We enjoyed a seaside tea, followed by a game of football, and topped off the evening with marshmallows as the sun dipped below the horizon. What an incredible day of adventure and relaxation!
DAY 5
Whilst at Luskintyre Beach, we met a couple with a camper who recommended that we visit Hushinish Beach further up the coast. Intrigued by their suggestion, we decided to make the trip and I'm so pleased that we did!
After driving back through Tarbet harbour, we took a brief detour to explore the Harris Gin Distillery and browse the Tweed of Harris shops before continuing our journey.
Hushinish Beach quickly became a favourite for us! The route there was quite an adventure, passing by cows, sheep, eagles, and plenty of adorable Highland coos. We often had to pause and wait for these fluffy creatures to wander off the road before we could proceed.
We spent the day enjoying the pristine, crystal clear waters, playing football again, building sandcastles, and racing up and down the soft, white sand dunes. The beach was a picture of pure beauty, with its immaculate white sand.
We set up camp directly on the beach once more. While there were several options available, including spots further away that overlooked the entire bay, we opted for panoramic views of the white sandy beach. This spot required payment via a ticket machine, £10 for the night, with added perks!
Our chosen spot featured an outhouse building with panoramic windows offering stunning views of Hushinish Bay. Inside, there were picnic benches, drinks machines, and a wealth of tourist information, including maps and books of the local area. Additionally, there were toilets available throughout the night, and showers were accessible for £1 (coins required).
We decided to take a stroll to the other side of the coast, which meant walking straight over the sand dunes and farmers field. To our amazement, we arrived just in time to witness speedboats pulling up to transport sheep to another island. It was quite an entertaining sight for all of us to see!
Now, let's get real for a moment! Everything sounds magnificent, and it was, but let's talk about the wind! The evening was incredibly windy. We cooked dinner inside the van and took advantage of the panoramic outhouse to enjoy our meal in warmth and comfort. Later, we made another quick trip down to the beach for the night time marshmallows at sunset.
As the night progressed, the wind intensified to the point where we had to lower the pop top of our camper van. Imagine the fun of managing this with a family of four, including growing children! How we managed not to divorce that evening, I'll never understand ;-)
A little tip: another camper wisely chose to park beside the outhouse instead of the open bay, and it made a world of difference. However, we chose the bay views, much to my husband's annoyance at 4 am!
DAY 6
Day 6 turned out to be a bit of a challenge. My little boy had some sort of reaction to something, so we had to make a journey to the Isle of Lewis to find a medical centre. To add to the chaos, my children managed to tip over the porta potti in the van while rushing to see a Highland cow! Despite the day's dramas, we came across some delightful honesty boxes, including the Hebridean Copper Kettle Fudge located near Breasclete on the Isle of Lewis, and drove past beautiful beaches. However, the persistent windy weather discouraged us from staying by the sea, so we looked for an alternative.
We stumbled upon a farm cottage that allowed campervans and motorhomes to use their back garden and land for overnight stays. I called the owner, who explained that they were still out of season and not officially open. She mentioned the risks of having children around due to the working farm and doesn't usually allow them but kindly agreed to let us stay. Not only did we have access to hot showers, but she also brought us fresh drinking water on the evening and we woke up to find hot flasks of water for tea and coffee waiting for us. They were such a lovely couple!
If you're interested in their details, feel free to message me on Instagram at @toffee_the_vw. They're listed on Park4Night, but they prefer not to have photographs taken on their land as it is their private home.
DAY 7
Today, was ferry day again, the last day on the islands. We made our way to Stornoway and explored Lews Castle. The Museum nan Eilean connected to the castle was particularly engaging and interactive, especially for children. The museum's galleries delved into the tales of the islands and islanders of the Outer Hebrides. We learned about their lives, experiences, and perspectives on island living, as well as how they celebrated their culture through the Gaelic language, religion, and community.
The little ones had a wonderful time learning a bit of Gaelic and even had the chance to dress up in traditional clothing from earlier periods, making the experience both educational and enjoyable for us all. The Castle itself was very grand, we enjoyed playing the piano in the main hall, and wandering around the grounds.
We returned to Tarbet for an early evening ferry and embarked on what turned out to be the choppiest sea crossing we've experienced so far. Miraculously, we all managed to make it across without any actual sickness!
Back on the Isle of Skye, we journeyed to Portree, on the opposite side of Skye from where we had previously explored, to see the iconic coloured buildings. This area of Skye turned out to be exceptionally beautiful and possibly our favourite part of the island.
We discovered a fantastic stopover at The Isle of Skye Candle Company, where we were able to stay for just £10. They provided access to their posh toilets and a panoramic view restaurant where we enjoyed delicious stone-baked pizza. You know you're a campervan owner when the prospect of posh toilets (complete with the nicest smelling handwash) brings you joy! The Isle of Skye Candle Company also has a cinema, so before leaving the following morning, we bought some hot, fresh popcorn for the road.
Day 8
With popcorn in hand, it was our final day of exploring Skye. Our first stop was An Corran at Staffin Beach, where we had promised the little ones we would search for dinosaur footprints. We joined other tourists in exploring the rocks and hunting for these ancient imprints. Nearby, we also visited a dinosaur museum, adding to our prehistoric adventure.
Next on our list was Kilt Rock Waterfall, offering breathtaking views overlooking the surrounding islands and the sea. Then, we passed by the Old Man of Storr, though we didn't hike it this time, leaving us eager to return for another exploration in the future.
Now it was decision time - news of 'Storm Kathleen' closing in made us weigh our options. Should we stay in Scotland or head home a day early? After careful consideration, we opted against one final Scottish stopover and embarked on the longer journey to The Kelpies.
We retraced our route through Fort William, past Glengarry, and over the Glencoe mountains on our way to The Kelpies, where we spent our final night of the road trip.
The Kelpies - what a magnificent sight! For £12.50, they allow stopovers with a voucher for free coffee the next morning, and the toilets open all night. We arrived around 7:30 pm and prepared dinner while waiting for darkness to fall. The colours of The Kelpies illuminated our campervan, and we took a leisurely walk to explore the area on foot. With hot chocolate in hand, our final night was peaceful, vibrant, and relaxed.
Thank you, Scotland, for yet another amazing adventure!
Until next time...
Ashleigh x
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